Articles by Steve Young

New factors will affect the composition of ice cream once changes to nutrition labeling regulations become effective mid-year 2018.

As we have often noted, ice cream is the only food intended to be consumed frozen. Thus, dairy processors need to protect that which fails first, i.e., body and texture (which can be described as bite, chew, smoothness and creaminess.)

Consumer interest in clean labels (that is, the use of ingredients perceived to occur naturally in foods) has created a challenge to ice cream formulators.

In our May column, we discussed the so-called “rare” sugars. These are sugars found in nature but at ultra-low levels. The most commercially available rare sugars are tagatose and allulose, recognized as providing sucrose-like sweetness (~ 0.90 and ~0.70, respectfully) at significantly lower caloric contributions (1.5 and 0.20 calories per gram, respectively).

There is a growing mandate from health authorities to reduce consumption of sugars (i.e., mono- and di-saccharides). For example, the current Dietary Guidelines for Americans call for significant reduction in calories from “added sugars.” Excluding lactose (which could eventually be included), current frozen desserts can contribute up to 22 grams of added sugars per serving, representing approximately 80% of total calories. The numbers will surge as serving sizes are increased to reflect the amounts typically consumed by Americans.

The cryogenic freezing of ice cream is appealing because the very rapid temperature drop it produces generates extremely small ice crystals that promote smooth texture and extended textural shelf life. To date, technical, operational and economic factors have limited its use in conventional production to a few value-added products such as novelties and ice cream cakes/pies.

Like in 2000 and 2004, Madagascar vanilla is in short supply and expensive. What’s an ice cream maker to do?

With the FDA mulling a requirement to label ‘added sugars,’ now is the time to look at various sweetening systems, and the ramifications of using them.

Stabilizers control the movement of water, the growth of ice crystals and the size of air bubbles. The right blend of stabilizers (and emulsifiers, too) can make all the difference in the end product.

It is not a simple matter when you add nuts, cookies or ribbons to ice cream mix. Pay attention to formulas, overrun, food safety, processing and economics. Proceed carefully and you’ll end up with a great product.