The Future of Cheese
by Cathy Sivak
Contributing Editor
Advances in culture and enzyme use create new opportunities for consistency, development and efficiency.
A new culture of
opportunities for cheese and other dairy processors is being created on the
R&D front of cultures and enzymes. Reliable flavor notes and an
accelerated aging process go hand in hand with emerging cultures in
development by dairy scientists.
Health and wellness trends are tapped with the
emergence of cultures to infuse cheeses with probiotics or create low-fat
and non-fat cheeses with palatable taste and texture. New cultures and
improved delivery systems are expected to improve not only opportunities
for new products, but also overall cheese quality and bottom-line
production costs.
Compared to previous versions, the latest generation
of cultures features higher concentration, higher functional activity,
scientifically proven health benefits and creation efficiency gains that
have resulted in decreased costs to processors, says Peggy Steele, product
manager for fresh dairy at Danisco Cultures Division, Madison, Wis.
Søren Herskind, the Hørsholm,
Denmark-based marketing director of cheese cultures for the Chr. Hansen A/S
Cultures & Enzymes division, agrees. “As demands for flavor
modification differ greatly, future ranges of ripening cultures may include
new strains used for fermentation of other food ingredients, new
combinations of known strains or traditional strains with new and improved
properties,” Herskind says.
Full Flavor Faster
“With cheese production, sometimes you add
cultures and whatever flavor you get, you get,” says Dean Sommer,
cheese and food technologist for the Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research
(CDR) in Madison. “But now, people are adding cultures for reasons
that have nothing to do with acid and everything to do with making cheddar
cheese more desirable.”
Cultures that reliably produce and even acceleration
the formation of specific desirable flavor compounds in the cheese are
another focus area for CDR and industry suppliers. “The current level
of interest in cheese flavor development is unprecedented,” says
Terri Rexroat, global product manager of lactic cultures for Cargill
Texturizing Solutions, Waukesha, Wis. Cargill has found cultures
(both bacteria and yeast) and enzymes with optimal protease, aminopeptidase
and esterase activities provide an ideal overall flavor package to cheddar,
parmesan and Swiss-type cheeses.
CDR researchers have identified cultures containing an
enzyme system that reliably produces desirable flavors, and at more intense
levels than currently achievable with current methods A classic example of
flavor needs is the nutty and fruity, burnt pineapple flavor tones found in
premium parmesan cheeses, Sommer says. Though parmesan is aged a minimum of
10 months prior to sale, fruity and nutty tones aren’t typically
detectable until eight or nine months, he explains, and current methods to
achieve full parmesan flavor require a lengthy — and expensive
— 20 to 24 months of maturation.
“Fruity and nutty are really desirable flavor
tones,” he says. “In commercial production, some companies are
good at coming up with those flavors reliably, and others really struggle
with it.”
Flavor as well as texture can be provided to low-fat
and no-fat cheeses through culture use. “One of the biggest defects
of low-fat cheese is that you don’t get the natural flavor of say, a
cheddar,” Sommer says. CDR has worked with a culture from
Iowa’s Medipharm that provides, even in reduced-fat and low-fat
cheeses, what Sommer describes as “a nice, balanced, cheesy
flavor.”
The heat partially inactivated lactobacillus
helveticus is an adjunct culture added to the milk prior to cheesemaking at
the same time as lactic acid cultures. Already utilized broadly in low-fat
European cheeses and proprietary applications by some U.S. processors, the
Medipharm culture has been found by CDR to be effective.
Meanwhile, what Sommer describes as
“rubbery-chewy texture” of non- and low-fat cheeses is being
addressed by a major research initiative led by the Dairy Management Inc.
(DMI) National Dairy Foods Research Center Program. The goal of DMI’s
low-fat cheese expert panel is to find cultures that create more intense
cheesy flavors while at the same time break down the body of the cheese to
get an acceptable texture.
Cultures and enzymes can also improve cheese yield and
functionality. Chr. Hansen, for instance, offers the YieldMAX pL
enzyme, which creates a 2 percent yield increase to pasta filate
(mozzarella) production.
Enter Probiotics
As consumer enthusiasm for beneficial bacteria grows,
U.S. product development trends follow those of Europe, with increasing
availability of specific probiotic culture strains in yogurt and even
cheese.
“Some of the real cutting-edge and exciting
cultures and cheese research is in the area of probiotic cultures,”
Sommer says of the bacteria considered beneficial to digestive health and
immune system enhancement. “We’ve done a lot of work here, and
it turns out that cheese is a very good vehicle for probiotic delivery.
Now, we are trying to see which probiotic cultures work best in which
cheese varieties. You have to know which strains are the right strains that
have probiotic characteristics. That’s the current cutting-edge part
of the industry right now. It’s not one-size fits all.”
To accommodate the aging process, industry researchers
are testing to see which common probiotic strains in yogurt — Bifidobacterium
bifidus, Lactobacillus acidophilus and Lactobacillus casei —
survive over time in various cheese applications, Sommer says. The goal of
probiotic culture addition is to keep active levels of live probiotics in
cheese at 10 million per gram or greater.
Lactobacillus casei is already found in naturally in
cheddar and many other cheeses as they age, and Sommer reports research
success with survivability in relatively high numbers with the addition of
adjunct cultures. Lactobacillus acidophilus likewise survives “very
nicely” in cheese, Sommer says. While bifido bacteria, the probiotic
strain associated with babies and mother’s milk, is effectively
incorporated in yogurt, it does not currently seem to be as durable for
cheese applications, Sommer says: “It works, but not as well as L.
casei or L. acidophilus.”
The probiotic culture influence on cheese flavor and
texture — either positive or negative — is also being studied.
“Typically you’re adding cultures to produce lactic acid
— that’s the main purpose of a culture,” Sommer says.
“But in this case, we’re adding cultures for probiotic health
effect, so what we don’t want is unintended flavors or textural
defect.”
For instance, a certain strain in a cheddar cheese
might result in production of gas, in turn creating cheddar with
undesirable Swiss-cheese-like eye development.
Danisco is proposing its range of Howaru premium
probiotics for incorporation in both hard and semi-hard cheeses.
“Professionals are starting to consider cheese as one of the best
vehicle for probiotic daily-doses in terms of stability during shelf life
for manufacturers and convenience for consumers,” Steele says.
“The further enrichment of cheese with calcium against osteoporosis,
pre- and probiotics for gut health benefits and plant sterols/stanols as
blood cholesterol-lowering agents represents a new and very promising field
of development in the cheese segment.”
This spring, Kraft Foods became the first to launch a
probiotic cheese in Canada with Kraft LiveActive, in cheddar and marbled
varieties; a U.S. launch is expected in September.
With an eye on the ongoing boom of probiotics-infused
yogurt and smoothie products for the children’s market, CDR is also
looking into the feasibility of probiotics in string cheese. “Kids
love string cheese, they like to play with it,” Sommer says.
“So what better medium than string cheese for probiotics for
kids?”
Development of low pH beverages with probiotics is
also expected to boom. In anticipation, Danisco is developing an adapted
process for Howaru cultures for stability in this application.
Processing Efficiencies
In general, use of cultures and enzymes can overcome
some of the challenges and considerations inherent in large-scale cheese
production. For instance, CDR research is defining use the cultures to
address formulation and functionality challenge of debittering aged
cheeses. “One of the biggest defects in cheeses today is unwanted
bitterness, particularly in cheeses like cheddar cheese and other aged
cheeses,” Sommer says.
Sommer credits dairy microbiologist Jim Steele as a
key to extensive research on debittering cultures. Research pinpoints
causes of bitterness in cheese, as well as preventative measures through
the addition of aminopeptidase enzymes.
Long-c:hain peptides are in place immediately in fresh
cheese. Aging then forms longer and shorter peptides that often break right
down to the amino acids, creating desirable flavor profiles. But during
protein breakdown, an imbalance of the aminopeptidase enzyme system caused
by certain cultures creates medium length peptides that cause bitter
cheese. The solution is the use of aminopeptidase to break down mid-chain
length peptides into smaller chain peptides and amino acids during the
aging process, Sommer says.
Two methods have proven effective at battling
bitterness: utilization of adjunct cultures with very strong aminopeptidase
systems to break down bitter peptides and addition of produced
aminopeptidase enzymes during cheesemaking.
Cultures can also increasingly function to protect
cheese systems from crashing. Mozzarella, cheddar and cottage cheese
applications demand good phage resistance and fast acid development, says
Chr. Hansen’s Herskind. The company developed its pHage Control and ST-M
cultures with highly robust mesophilic and thermophilic cultures to be
particularly resistant to attack from bacteriophages.
Dairy scientists continue to seek cultures that show
resistance to attack by bacterial viruses. The goal is to ensure
“cheese manufactures don’t get caught by culture systems that
crash because they were attacked and destroyed by bacteria crash phage
viruses,” Sommer says. “It’s a constant battle.”
To inhibit growth of yeasts and molds in yogurt, fresh
cheese or other fermented dairy products, Danisco offers a line of Holdbac protective
cultures and Microgard fermentates, as well as the antimicrobials Natamax and Nisaplin. Its
protective culture Holdbac YM has been shown to inhibit the growth of molds
and fulfill the requirement of 28-day shelf life for yogurt, with the new
culture Holdbac YM-C proven to successfully prolong yogurt shelf life
to more than 42 days.
Direct-to-vat culture additions create improved
function and viability and have gained cost efficiency to become
competitive with bulk culture systems, according to culture houses with
various proprietary direct-vat culture and delivery systems. The direct-vat
addition of adjunct cultures in cheese, for instance, is designed to
improve effectiveness at providing desired flavor notes as well as
increases in probiotic survival rate. Overall, direct-vat timing and
dispersal improves cheese consistency.
The cheese industry has been slow to utilize due to a
higher cost-in-use of compared to bulk batch cultures, Steele says.
“But recent evolutions are catalyzing a change in attitude,” he
says, noting that Danisco currently has direct-to-vat cultures available
for mozzarella and cheddar applications.
Chr. Hansen has likewise driven direct inoculation for
consistency, quality and control via its Direct Vat Set (DVS) system.
Meanwhile, Cargill has introduced Tempo and Max-Gro cultures for direct vat
methods.
Specialty Research
The growing U.S. and international market for
alternate-make cheeses such as non-standardized Hispanic-type cheeses is
creating new challenges for the ingredients industry as well as cheese
processors. Rexroat notes that Cargill is committed to product and
application development of cultures, enzymes, flavors and texturizing
agents for alternate-make cheese technology.
Duplication of Italian parmesan reggiano cheese
utilizing pasteurized milk instead of raw milk is another possible culture
application being sought by CDR. The European raw-milk cheese typically has
intense, fruity flavor due to the natural flora of lactic acid bacteria in
raw milk. However, it is costly to produce as it is aged two years or
longer to achieve an extremely dry body, which carries a corresponding loss
of yield. “We’re trying to come up with and understand the
science to develop that with pasteurized milk, and in shorter periods of
time,” Sommer says.
Areas to watch for development in enzymes include
those suitable for kosher products. Cheeses such as asiago, romano and
provolone rely on the lipase enzyme to target triglycerides and cleave off
free-fatty acids. The result is the traditional hard Italian cheese flavor,
which features a balanced, desirable rancidity, Sommer says. Traditionally
lipase enzymes are isolated from animal tissues; Kosher lipases from
non-animal sources are typically microbial. But Sommer explains kosher
microbial lipases cleave off different chain-length fatty acids than
animal-based ones. The result is a flavor profile that tends to be soapy
and bitter.
“The nirvana is for us or for culture houses to
find another source of lipase that is kosher from non-animal
sources,” Steele says, “but that will produce flavor similar to
the more traditional cheeses: balanced, sweet, pleasant and acceptable to
consumers.”
Cheese Genome Project?
A flurry of DMI-funded research by prominent
university dairy researchers is working to determine genetic code of lactic
acid starter cultures for cheese, which Sommer describes as “beyond
cutting edge.”
Once a determination of how genes are triggered to
create flavor compounds during aging is made, Sommer expects dairy
scientists to be able to custom manufacture and control the cultures to
produce the specific flavors, textures and desirable profiles. “I
can’t tell you how long before that gets commercialized, but I can
tell you undoubtedly it will come to fruition in the future.”
Cathy Sivak is a freelance journalist and a former
editor of Dairy Field.
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