High Hopes
by Julie Cook Ramirez
Bolstered by the low-carb craze, cottage-cheese processors
radiate optimism.
Ask any processor and
they’ll tell you virtually the same thing: People love dairy
products. From cheese cravers and milk lovers to yogurt enthusiasts and ice
cream fanatics, consumers just can’t seem to get enough dairy —
with one notable exception.
When it comes to cottage cheese, that’s where
the insatiability stops.
Granted, there are certain segments of the population
who consume more cottage cheese than the rest. It’s not unusual to
find a small cup of the white stuff on a lunch tray at a nursing home, for
example. Among the population at large, however, cottage cheese isn’t
exactly top of mind. In fact, most consumers would readily admit they
don’t even consider placing it on their shopping list when planning a
trip to the supermarket.
In recent years, processors have struggled to figure
out why cottage cheese has failed to achieve the same kind of following as
its more popular cousins. As might be expected, the answer is
multi-faceted, as the category has found itself plagued by numerous
challenges. While there’s no silver-bullet solution to the problem, a
quick look at the demographic make-up of the average cottage-cheese
consumer provides a wealth of insight into the category and begins to
address the question of why it’s likely faltering.
Jed Davis, director of marketing for Cabot, Vt.-based
Cabot Creamery Cooperative, cites data showing the greatest percentage of
cottage-cheese consumption takes place in two-person households and
among people age 65 and up. Although life expectancy continues to rise, the
fact that most cottage-cheese consumers are closer to the grave than the
majority of the population does not bode well for the future of the
category.
“If your current consumer is dying off, you have
two choices: You can let the product die off with them or you can try to
find some new customers,” says Bill Haines, vice president of product
innovation, Dairy Management Inc. (DMI), Rosemont, Ill.
“Unfortunately, in recent history, cottage cheese hasn’t been
particularly exciting to young consumers.”
What’s more, says Dave Holdsworth, vice
president of sales and marketing, Old Home Foods Inc., St. Paul, Minn.,
many of today’s children and young adults didn’t grow up with
cottage cheese in the ‘fridge, as their parents and grandparents did.
As a result, they are unfamiliar with the product. According to Holdsworth,
this necessitates an all-out education effort on the part of processors, an
endeavor few are eager to undertake — or finance.
“People want to educate the younger generation
about cottage cheese, but when they look at their dollar allocation and
where they want to invest their resources, they realize it’s a very
difficult undertaking,” Holdsworth says. “That’s why they
are going to be very slow to move down that path.”
Naturally, there’s an exception to every rule.
In this case, it’s Phoenix-based Shamrock Farms, which seeks to make
moms aware of the nutritional benefits of cottage cheese. In particular,
says Sandy Kelly, director of marketing, Shamrock strives to communicate
the fact that cottage cheese contains significantly less sugar than another
dairy product with an enormous kid following — yogurt.
Just recently, in fact, Shamrock rolled out two
no-sugar-added varieties of 5.5-ounce single-serve cottage cheese with
fruit mix-ins. New Strawberry Banana and Apple Cinnamon both contain nearly
75 percent less sugar than traditional yogurt, along with 13 grams of
protein and 10 net carbohydrates per serving.
Counting Carbs
Increasingly, the carbohydrate content of cottage
cheese is becoming a key selling point, as consumers seek out foods that
are considered an acceptable part of the popular “low-carb”
diets. Fortunately, this is one area where cottage cheese has an inherent
advantage over many foods, as it’s naturally low in carbohydrates.
After years of struggling to find a competitive edge, processors are
understandably excited about the potential for growth that the low-carb
craze has brought to the cottage-cheese category.
As part of its alliance with Dr. Arthur Agatston,
author of “The South Beach Diet,” Northfield, Ill.-based Kraft
Foods recently began featuring a “South Beach Diet Recommended”
button on a number of its products, including Light N’ Lively Cottage
Cheese.
Old Home Foods, meanwhile, has taken to promoting its
cottage cheese as “the original low-carb food” in FSIs and on
billboards. The company also added flags to its cottage-cheese packaging,
touting the low carbohydrate content.
“Some of our competitors have launched a
low-carb cottage cheese, kind of a knock-off of their own product,”
Holdsworth says. “We made a conscious decision not to do that, but to
just market our cottage cheese and point out the fact that it’s a
low-carb product.”
Holdsworth likely is alluding to the R&D efforts
of companies like Wells’ Dairy Inc., Le Mars, Iowa, which recently
rolled out Blue Bunny Carb Freedom cottage cheese, containing 3 grams of
net carbs, 25 percent fewer than its traditional cottage cheese, at 4
grams.
Even though cottage cheese is already considered a
low-carb food, Troy Davis, Wells’ marketing manager for retail dairy,
says a further reduced-carb product was called for because “low-carb
dieters count every gram of carbohydrates.”
Apparently, the low-carb appeal of cottage cheese is
drawing consumers to the category. A number of processors report
significant sales increases that cannot be attributed to any other factors
but the low-carb nature of the product.
According to Ron Schroder, director of marketing for
Davenport, Iowa-based Swiss Valley Farms, his company has experienced
double-digit growth in cottage-cheese sales during the past year, despite a
lack of new products or promotional activity. A similar phenomenon has been
reported by Betsy Watson, marketing director for Anderson Erickson Dairy
Co., Des Moines, Iowa, as well as Cabot’s Davis and Old Home’s
Holdsworth.
“With the low-carb phenomenon, a lot of people
have been coming into the cottage-cheese category,” Holdsworth says.
“Either they were lapsed users or they are trying it for the first
time and. hopefully, they will see it’s a good tasting product,
it’s good for them and it provides a lot of nutrients.”
While individual processors may be reaping the rewards
of the low-carb craze, the cottage-cheese category as a whole remains
relatively flat. According to Chicago-based Information Resources Inc.
(IRI), dollar sales of cottage cheese rose a meager 1.2 percent, while unit
sales inched up just 0.3 percent in supermarkets, drug stores and mass
merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, during the 52-week period ending
September 5, 2004.
While such lackluster performance would be frowned
upon in many categories, it’s actually a “minor victory”
that cottage-cheese sales are flat, rather than down, according to Marc
Silverstein, marketing manager, Friendship Dairies Inc., Jericho, N.Y.
“When I first started at Friendship in 1997, the
category was coming off 20-plus years of negative movement,” he says.
“The fact that it has leveled off is actually positive
news.”
Top 10 Cottage Cheese Brands* | |||||
$ Sales | % Change | Dollar | Unit Sales | % Change | |
(In Millions) | vs. Year Ago | Share | (In Millions) | vs. Year Ago | |
Total Category | $864.5 | 1.2 | 100.0 | 414.5 | 0.3 |
Private Label | 309.5 | -1.0 | 35.8 | 158.8 | -1.0 |
Breakstone | 82.5 | 9.9 | 9.5 | 32.0 | 9.4 |
Knudsen | 75.9 | -0.4 | 8.8 | 28.7 | -3.4 |
Friendship | 26.8 | 0.9 | 3.1 | 13.0 | 0.2 |
Breakstone Cottage Dbls | 26.5 | 3.6 | 3.1 | 23.8 | 5.6 |
Dean’s | 26.1 | -1.8 | 3.0 | 12.2 | -3.4 |
Hood | 22.7 | 53.6 | 2.6 | 10.7 | 44.9 |
Light ‘n Lively | 18.9 | -2.7 | 2.2 | 7.3 | -3.5 |
Prairie Farms | 18.3 | 9.5 | 2.1 | 9.0 | 12.2 |
Hiland | 15.7 | -14.4 | 1.8 | 7.9 | -15.6 |
* Total sales in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, for the 52-week period ending September 5, 2004. | |||||
SOURCE: Information Resources Inc. |
Looking to the Future
Even as analysis have begun to predict the demise of
Atkins, South Beach and other similar diets, dairy processors believe that
the low-carb craze may actually have a long-term positive effect on the
cottage-cheese category. That’s because it has provided a very badly
needed impetus for investing in product development and marketing.
“It’s drawn people back to that part of
the dairy case, and they’ve suddenly discovered, ‘Here’s
something we haven’t had in a long time, and guess what? We like
it,’” Haines says. “In order for that to have a lasting
effect, the industry can’t just let that lie. They’ve got to
use that as a platform, get behind it and push it.”
Indeed, a number of processors have rolled out new
cottage-cheese products in recent months. Anderson Erickson introduced Mr.
E’s Garden Vegetable Cottage Cheese, Old Home unveiled peach-flavored
cottage cheese and Swiss Valley came out with a single-serve lowfat cottage
cheese. In addition, a number of dairies have given their cottage-cheese
packaging a long overdue facelift in an effort to capture consumers’
attention as they peruse the dairy case.
For its part, DMI sponsored a research project that
sought to develop a method for manufacturing cottage cheese in an enclosed
horizontal cheese vat. According to Lloyd Metzger, director of the
Minnesota/South Dakota Dairy Foods Research Center and assistant professor
in the Department of Food Science and Nutrition at the University of
Minnesota at St. Paul, the idea behind the project was to automate the
manufacture of cottage cheese, thus resulting in a more consistent product.
“Even within the same brand, you can get small
curds one day and large curds the next,” Metzger says.
“Hopefully, with this process, we’re producing a consistent,
quality product that will give consumers what they expect every
time.”
Cabot Creamery hosted a successful trial run in early
2004, which ultimately led the company to purchase two enclosed vats for
cottage-cheese production. Metzger is currently in the process of
negotiating with other processors. While he believes what he and his
colleagues have been able to accomplish is an important first step, he
feels strongly that further innovation will be necessary if cottage cheese
is ever going to live up to its potential.
“In order for the category to really grow, there
really needs to be a big manufacturer, whether it’s a General Mills
or Kraft, that takes it to the next level with flavors and changing the
sweetness profile like they did with yogurt,” Metzger says.
“Thirty years ago, nobody liked plain yogurt, but go to a grocery
store now and you’ve got 60 or 70 different flavors of yogurt. I
would hope that the same thing could happen with cottage cheese and we
could really see the category take off.” df
Julie Cook Ramirez is a freelance journalist based in the
Chicago area.
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